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The city is home to a selection of “fine dining” establishments – which here usually means a casual atmosphere and locally sourced sharing plates – such as Bestia, which serves modern Italian cuisine in a former factory in the Arts District.

This is the new beating heart of the cityĪdd to that a roll-call of restaurants by creative young chefs and long-established ethnic communities, and you have a rival for New York’s pumping, high and lowbrow culinary scene. If Meieran’s other local drinking den Edison, a former power plant turned speakeasy, is anything to go by, it’ll be a success (much, I’d imagine, to Miguel’s chagrin). Its new incarnation, in the hands of Andrew Meieran, will pay homage to its glittering history throughout its four storeys. As one taxi driver, Miguel, who moved Downtown for its cheap rent, bemoaned, “You have to queue to get into local bars these days!” An example is the reopening this month of 1935 restaurant-meets-party pad Clifton’s Cafeteria. The renaissance of Downtown has also prompted a flurry of new food and drink openings.

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It is perhaps this final revamp which best represents how Downtown has remoulded itself: the tall Gothic-style structure, a former film studio, is now a 182-room hotel with a buzzing rooftop bar, overflowing restaurant and full working theatre. The council-run Bringing Back Broadway initiative has seen heritage buildings along the strip conserved, such as the Bradbury building (as seen in Bladerunner) and the relighting of the neon signage belonging to venues such as the Million Dollar Theatre, Orpheum and the 1927 United Artists Building, now the Ace Hotel (my home for the weekend).

Much in the same way as the market, Broadway, the one-time epicentre of entertainment, is also undergoing a revival. The market, which opened in 1917, is popular with the hipster contingent, but I noticed that for every skateboard-wielding twentysomething ordering from the market’s most popular stand, Eggslut (prepare for a queue, their eggcentric menu has won awards), there was a family enjoying ice creams from O’Connells, a businessman on lunch polishing off a $3 taco, or a local buying mole from Mexican store Chiles Secos, the latter opened in the Seventies and is still run by family members. The streetscape includes the postmodern, red sandstone Museum of Contemporary Art, while farther up is the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion (golden-hued home to the LA Opera), as well as the Ahmanson and Mark Taper theatres, which show everything from classic theatre to musicals.Īfter my Grand Avenue tour, we veered south-west on foot, through the high-rises of Bunker Hill – another reminder of the gentrification of Downtown, whose Thirties’ flophouses featured in Raymond Chandler’s noir novel The Big Sleep – and arrived at Grand Central Market. Grand Avenue is well on its way to becoming the Museum Mile of the west coast. Pavements were widened around the building to encourage footfall and a metro station is planned for 2020. It is a continuation of Gehry’s vision of a thriving community centre. That The Broad is next door to the concert hall is no coincidence.

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